Degustation on a budget

Last night I had the pleasure of visiting 269 Wickham, which is a restaurant run and catered by students of the Hospitality Training Association.

The restaurant is open for a 7-course degustation dinner Mon-Thurs, or a 4-course lunch degustation from Tues-Fri.  It is easily accessible from the Fortitude Valley train station.  The restaurant has been recommended to me by several sources, and I was advised that the food was high quality and exceptional value.  I was not disappointed – the 7 course degustation costs just $30, or $65 with matching wines.  I understand the menu changes periodically, depending upon the season and the stage the students are at in their course.

One of the wonderful things about the operation is that it gives hospitality students a chance to put the skills they learn in classes into practice.  It was encouraging to see how seriously they took the responsibility, and if they are anything to go by, the next crop of wait-staff and chefs will be excellent.

Be prepared – this post is going to be a long one, I’ve got a lot to say and lots of pictures to show off.  However, I can say authoritatively that 269 Wickham has not seen the last of me!

Course 1 – Canapes

The evening started impressively – we were served a tasting plate of two canapes – a sweet potato and pumpkin stack with onion jam, as well as a poached oyster in a creamy champagne sauce.  The stack was easily one of my favourite dishes of the night – I love onion jam, and it was the perfect accompaniment to the root vegetables.  I am not a big oyster fan, but the sauce had a lovely smooth mouth-feel and nicely complemented the salty oyster.

Course 2 – Entree

Three items on this tasting plate.  On the right we have the pressed tomato terrine, topped with Persian feta and served with droplets of balsamic reduction.  There is a reason this is a classic combination – it was delightful, if not exceptionally adventurous.  In the centre is pork rillettes (pork neck) served with lavosh and tiny cornichons (French gherkins).  I must admit, I was a little apprehensive when I read the description of this dish, but I think it was the best bite on this plate.  Basically, the “neck” is exceedingly tender pork meat that falls apart in your mouth, and on your plate.  Finally, on the right we have the in-house cured salmon, with a honey, mustard and dill dressing.  This was also very enjoyable.

Course 3 – Soup

A selection of soups followed shortly after the entree.  Firstly, a thick broth of mussels and vanilla.  The mussels taste was subtle, but the use of vanilla was an interesting and aromatic twist.  This was very popular amongst my dining companions!  In the middle is a classical Vichyssoise soup – a cold potato, leek and cream soup.  I am not a huge fan of cold soups generally, but this was smooth and rich and easy to drink down.  Finally a Peking duck consomme with little slivers of green onion omelette floating atop it.  This was a nice contrast to the richer broths on the plate, and was delicately flavoured with star anise.  In fact, it sort of reminded me of chai tea.

Course 4 – Sorbet

Not much to say about this, was just a pleasant citrus palette cleanser before the main event.

Course 5 – Main

This was the only component of the meal that we were asked to chose, so I selected the lamb loin.  The lamb was served two ways – seared loin slices, and a lamb “gallette”, which was essentially parcel of slow cooked lamb.  The lamb had clearly been cooked for hours and fell apart on my fork (this was a good thing!).  Served with a ratatouille-like vegetable medley and mashed potato.  I cleared my plate.

As did my companions – I understand the crispy skinned Barramundi and duck Maryland were a pleasure to eat.

Course 6 – Cheese

I suppose my only gripe with the meal was at this point.  However, this more comes down to personal preference than any fault of the kitchen.  One of my other companions loved this dish – different strokes for different folks!  This was baked ricotta, served with pear, walnuts and truffled honey.  I understand the ricotta is made by the students, but I must confess I’m not a huge fan of this cheese at the best of times, and the mix of sweet and savoury didn’t appeal to me in this case.

Course 7 – Dessert

Finally, we’re at dessert!  Personally, I loved almost all of this dish, and the aspects I didn’t enjoy merely came down to taste preferences.  On the left was a delicate chocolate and almond cake – soft, rich and delicate – served with vanilla bean cream (I adore vanilla bean!).  In the middle is a raspberry souffle (the menu referred to it as a peach sorbet, but I know raspberry when I taste it!).  This was everything a souffle should be – it arrived at the table having successfully risen out of the ramekin, and it was light and airy.  I loved this!  Finally, my least favourite of the three offerings, a lemon myrtle panna cotta, served with a lillypilly sauce.  The panna cotta was perfectly cooked, but I am not fond of lemon myrtle, nor lillypilly.  However, full marks for the use of native Australia ingredients!

Do yourself a favour, make a booking at 269 Wickham (and you do have to book), and treat yourself to a decadent weeknight dinner.

269 Wickham
Fortitude Valley
269wickham@hta.org.au
Phone: 07 3872 4200